Green Guru: Vegetarian Thanksgiving
How to serve a turkey-free Thanksgiving without sacrificing taste.
How can I make a vegetarian Thanksgiving dinner?
--Jane Degraw, Milwaukee, WI
There are plenty of delicious courses perfect for a traditional Turkey Day without the bird. A variety of seasonal sides--those time-honored dishes that the holiday brings to mind--make for a tasty and environmentally friendly meal.
Spiced nuts, mushroom-cheese-spinach strudel, sweet potato souffle, and crisp salad with pears and dried cranberries are just a few of the delicious dishes guests could pile on their plates (see recipes below).
"A decade or two ago, people were often looking for vegetarian meat substitutes, something usually made from soy that would provide protein and stand in for meat in a sort of mock, second-best way," says Susan Harville, co-owner of Ithaca, New York's Moosewood Restaurant, a 38-year-old vegetarian establishment that also has 12 cookbooks to its name. "Today vegetarianism is accepted enough that people are simply looking for an appealing, colorful, healthful meal."
Eating vegetarian is not only healthy, it also reduces pollution, waste, and the use of fossil fuels associated with raising animals. A United Nations report released last year stated that agriculture, especially for the production of meat and dairy products, accounts for 70 percent of freshwater use worldwide and 14 percent of the planet's greenhouse-gas emissions.
For those who think of Thanksgiving without a main dish as strange, there's always the option of cooking a Tofurky. Since its debut in 1995, the product's popularity has soared. Diners have purchased more than 300,000 annually in recent years, reports creator Seth Tibbott.
If you're still chewing on the idea of preparing a vegetarian meal, Harville has a few words of advice: "Don't explain, don't apologize, don't argue, don't preach--just serve an abundant variety of delicious, interesting foods. Enjoy yourself and be grateful, and no one will miss the meat."
Recipes from Moosewood
October Bittersweet Salad
Prep time: 20 mins; Total time: 20 mins; Serves: 8
This unusual combination of bitter and sweet, crisp and juicy, is delicious and very attractive with its glistening red vinaigrette. Choose whatever combination of salad greens appeals to you, but with an emphasis on the sharper-tasting ones, such as arugula, watercress, or mizuna. Peppery frisee, with its lacy leaves, is ideal. A large head of frisee will yield about 6 cups of greens.
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons cider vinegar or white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 cup dried cranberries (craisins)
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
8 cups mixed field greens, rinsed
2 to 3 firm but ripe Bartlett pears, cored and thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cups peeled and shredded or thinly sliced turnips or cups celerty heart stalks, sliced on the diagonal
1/4 cup dried cranberries (craisins)
1/4 cup crumbled goat cheese or blue cheese (optional)
Combine the vinaigrette ingredients in a blender or food processor and whirl until the dried cranberries are finely minced and suspended in the dressing. Set aside.
Tear the salad greens into bite-sized pieces and arrange on individual plates or on a large platter.
Toss the pear slices and lemon juice together in a bowl to evenly coat the pears and prevent discoloration; then arrange them on the greens.
Top with the turnip or celery heart slices and sprinkle on the cranberries.
Finish with the crumbled cheese, if using.
Shake up or stir the Cranberry Vinaigrette and drizzle it evenly over the salad just before serving
Yields: 6 pastries; Serves: 6; Hands on time: 35 minutes; Baking time: 15 minutes
This greener version of spanakopita is lighter on the cheese, uses olive oil rather than butter, is loaded with masses of healthful greens but is still a crowd-pleaser, puffed and golden. Whole wheat filo is enjoyable to work with, more forgiving than white flour filo and the baked pastry has more integrity and flavor.
8 cups chopped sturdy greens, such as kale or collards
8 cups chopped delicate greens, such as spinach, chard, or mustard greens
4 ounces Neufchatel cheese, at room temperature
3/4 cup grated feta cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
16-ounce package whole wheat filo dough
2 teaspoons sesame seeds
Steam the sturdy greens until tender, about 10 minutes. Place them in a colander to drain. Steam the delicate greens until just wilted and add them to the colander. Use your hand or the back of a spoon to press on the greens to get out as much water as possible. Place the drained greens in a mixing bowl. Add the Neufchatel, feta, dill, oregano, and pepper and mix well.
In a microwave oven or in a small pan on the stovetop, heat the oil and garlic just until the garlic sizzles and becomes golden but not browned. Pour the warm oil through a strainer. Stir the garlic into the greens and cheese mixture, and set aside the garlic-flavored oil.